Types of cashmere: a guide to the different types of cashmere
Cashmere is often spoken of as a single, uniform fiber but the reality is far more nuanced. While every cashmere garment is drawn from the same precious raw material, the finished fabric can feel remarkably different depending on how that fiber is selected, spun and finished. Weight, texture, sheen and warmth all shift according to the processing behind them.
How is cashmere classified?
Cashmere is classified according to a combination of factors: the fineness (or gauge) and length of the fiber, its overall quality,its geographic origin and the spinning and finishing processes it undergoes. The fiber itself comes from the soft undercoat that cashmere goats grow to survive the harsh winters of Central Asia, and is gathered by hand-combing the animals during their spring molt rather than by shearing, a method that helps preserve both fiber quality and animal welfare. Origin plays a meaningful role in the outcome: fiber diameters generally range between roughly 14 and 19 microns depending on the region, with the finest, most prized qualities associated with specific areas known for particularly favorable climate and grazing conditions. At Fedeli we use only longer fibers that produce a softer and better quality cashmere. These variables also influence how well a garment retains heat and how it behaves over years of wear.To understand in more depth what determines the value of the raw fiber itself, read our dedicated guide to cashmere quality.
What are the different types of cashmere?
The expression "types of cashmere" can refer to several distinct things: a specific characteristic of the fiber, a particular spinning or finishing technique, or a blend with another fiber altogether. Each of these approaches shapes the final result in its own way, softening or structuring the hand of the fabric, adjusting its weight, altering its texture or changing the way it catches the light. The sections below explore the main types you're likely to come across, from cashmere feather to cashmere flanel.
Cashmere feather or piuma: what is it and what is it used for
Piuma Cashmere, from the Italian word for "feather," describes an exceptionally light and airy construction of the fiber. Technically, it is built from two plies of classic 2/28 cashmere count, knitted on a thicker gauge than usual, a construction that produces a super lightweight, feather-like handfeel while preserving the fiber's natural softness. The result is a fabric that feels almost weightless against the skin. This quality makes Cashmere Feather particularly well suited to layering pieces and to garments meant for milder temperatures, where warmth is still welcome but bulk is not.
Cashmere-silk: what is it and how is it different from cashmere?
Cashmere silk is a blend of cashmere fiber with silk, combining the warmth and softness of cashmere with the natural sheen and fluidity of silk. This pairing changes several qualities of the finished fabric: it typically drapes more fluidly, catches the light with a subtle luster and feels notably smooth against the skin. At Fedeli, cashmere silk is knitted on an 18 gauge, an ultra-fine construction that reinforces the fabric's lightness and refined drape. Compared to pure cashmere, a cashmere silk blend tends to be lighter in weight and slightly less insulating, though it gains a refined luminosity in return, making it a compelling choice for pieces meant to move between structured and elegant.
Cashmere velour: characteristics and uses
Cashmere velour is defined by a distinctive finishing technique that gives the fabric a dense, plush surface, reminiscent of velvet in both look and feel. The result is a notably soft, velvety hand with a subtle depth to its surface, setting it apart from smoother cashmere weaves. This particular texture lends itself especially well to statement pieces and accessories, where its rich, tactile quality can take center stage.
Cashmere flanel: an exclusive Fedeli fabric
Cashmere flanel is characterized by a soft, gently brushed surface that gives the fabric a slightly hazy, matte finish. This brushing process traps air within the fibers, enhancing the fabric's warmth while adding a comforting softness to the touch. The result is a material that feels substantial and cozy without being heavy, making it a natural choice for cooler months and for pieces designed to be worn close to the body.
At Fedeli, cashmere flanel is an exclusive fabric manufactured at our headquarters in Monza, following a meticulous treatment, and it comes in two distinct versions. The single-layer flanel is a light yet extra-warm cashmere cloth, prized for offering real warmth without added weight. The double-layer flanel takes the same meticulous process a step further, building a denser cloth that elevates the natural beauty of the fiber and achieves an extraordinary softness while still maintaining structure and volume.
How to choose the right type of cashmere
Choosing the right type of cashmere comes down to matching the fabric's characteristics to how and when you intend to wear it. Softness, weight, warmth, texture and composition should all be weighed against the season, the occasion and the silhouette of the garment itself. Beyond the initial feel of the fabric in hand, it's worth considering the quality of the fiber and the care put into its processing, since these are what ultimately determine how a garment performs and ages over time.
Understanding the different types of cashmere means recognizing that this single fiber can take on remarkably different personalities: light as a feather in Piuma Cashmere, lustrous in a cashmere silk blend, plush in cashmere velour or soft and warm in cashmere flanel. Knowing what sets each apart makes it far easier to choose the piece that will genuinely serve you, season after season.
