Cashmere Micron: the cashmere unit measurement

The softness felt the first time a cashmere garment is worn is real. But it doesn't tell the whole story. Behind a sweater capable of lasting for years, holding its shape, feel and appearance, sit precise technical choices invisible to the naked eye. Micron count is one of them. Together with fibre length and yarn construction, it is one of the key parameters used to assess cashmere quality.

Cashmere Micron: what it means

The term micron refers to the unit of measurement used to express the diameter of a textile fibre. One micron equals one thousandth of a millimetre, a value imperceptible to the human hand and only visible trough a microscope.

In cashmere, micron count describes how fine each individual hair from the cashmere goat's undercoat is. The lower the number, the finer the fibre. High-quality cashmere, like the one crafted by Fedeli’s hands, generally falls between 14 and 16.5 microns, compared with an average human hair, which measures around 70 microns.

A finer fibre feels softer to the touch and is more delicate against the skin. This is why micron count is considered one of the leading indicators of raw material quality.

How Micron and fibre fineness are measured

Micron count is measured using specific laboratory instruments, including the Projection Microscope and, more commonly today, the OFDA (Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser), which automatically analyses thousands of fibres to produce a reliable statistical average.

The value expressed in microns corresponds to the average diameter of the fibre's cross-section. Measurement is carried out on samples taken from the raw material before processing begins. It is precisely this rigour, applied from the earliest stages of the supply chain, that sets apart manufacturers working to high quality standards.

In the textile industry vicuna, wool, cashmere and precious fibres are generally classified by fineness as follows:

up to 15.5 microns: excellent, rare and highly prized cashmere
15.5 to 17 microns: high-quality cashmere
above 17 microns: standard quality, more prone to pilling

Fibre length and cashmere quality

Micron count speaks to fineness. Length speaks to durability. They are two distinct parameters, yet inseparable when assessing the quality of a yarn.

Long fibres, which in cashmere can exceed 36 millimetres, interlock more tightly during spinning. This makes them less prone to pilling, more stable over time, and better able to retain the garment's original appearance even after repeated washing.

Short fibres, by contrast, tend to surface more easily, creating the small nodules that compromise a garment's appearance. The answer to "which wool pills less?" is therefore technical: a wool or cashmere made from long, well-selected, properly spun fibres.

Quality cashmere isn't only soft at the point of purchase. It stays soft, compact and unchanged for years. Fibre length is one of the main reasons why.

To explore the criteria behind fibre selection in more depth, the page dedicated to cashmere quality details the parameters that define a fine garment. For care over time, the tips for storing cashmere cover the correct washing and storage practices.

Cashmere 1-Ply, 2-Ply and 4-Ply: the differences

Beyond micron count and fibre length, another variable shapes the structure of the finished garment: the number of plies twisted together to form the yarn.

Single ply produces a light, almost weightless garment, ideal for thin layers or temperate climates. It demands an excellent fibre, since every imperfection becomes more visible.

Two-ply is the most common choice in high-end cashmere, balancing lightness and structure for comfort across most of the year.

Four-ply results in a heavier, warmer garment: not automatically superior to the others, simply different in weight and seasonal use.

The choice on how many piles depends on use, season and aesthetic intent. A two-ply made from fibre selected at 15 microns can be finer than a four-ply made from ordinary raw material: ply count describes construction, but yarn quality always depends on the starting fibre.

Fedeli: how micron and fibre quality guide yarn selection

Since 1934, cashmere production at Fedeli has followed one clear principle: the fibre is chosen before the shape. Each season, raw material selection involves a rigorous assessment of micron count and fibre length, two parameters that determine not only the garment's immediate feel but its longevity.

Fedeli works with selected yarns that meet high fineness standards, in keeping with the tradition of fine Italian knitwear, ensuring garments that retain their softness, volume and appearance even after years of wear. Production, based in Monza, combines artisanal know-how with technical control across every stage of the supply chain, from yarn selection to final finishing.

Micron is a starting point, not a label